Morue frite, sauce à l'ail

Salt cod reached Greece centuries ago through Mediterranean and Atlantic trade routes, long before refrigeration made fresh fish easy to keep. Salting and drying it let coastal and inland households alike store protein for months, and frying it in a light batter became the favourite way to bring it back to life. Skordalia, the whipped garlic sauce served alongside, is older still, named after the ancient Greek word for garlic and built from little more than garlic, olive oil and a starchy base pounded together.

The two dishes became inseparable because of the religious calendar. During the long fasting period before Easter, meat and dairy were off the table, but fish like salt cod was allowed, which made bakaliaros skordalia the centerpiece of Palm Sunday meals across Greece. The dish later picked up a second, patriotic occasion: Greek Independence Day on March 25th, which falls during the same fasting season, so the crisp fried fish and pungent garlic dip are now served side by side at family tables on both days.